There's a lot of disagreement on what makes a site "good" but there's almost universal agreement on what makes them BAD. Webpagesthatsuck.com gives a very nice overview of the no-nos that everyone should avoid.
(yes once you know them and know how to deal with them, you can break the rules. But beginners should avoid these like a tired cliche!)
The second thing is "don't learn HTML just to do a single website" (you will spend too long getting it up and running.)
http://www.melwhite.com/5mm.htm