![]() |
Click Here to see the latest posts! Ask any questions related to business / entrepreneurship / money-making / life NO BLATANT ADS PLEASE
Stay up to date! Get email notifications or |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]() so I figure this is fair game.
HELP! My Hot water heater has a leak. It's at the connection of a spigot (presumably to empty the thing), so I think it's just a washer. I can see/feel the water spraying lightly from there. I've turned off the pilot according to directions on the thing, and I've connected a hose to drain it. There are two faucets at the top of the thing, so I'm assuming that that's where the water comes in to the heater. Only one pipe with a spigot goes into the heater, and I'm thinking I need to turn off the one closest to the heater. I can't hear any water running into the heater - just out, via my hose. My question is this: Don't I need to turn off the water at the top of the heater? It's awfully hard to turn - I didn't want to force it, because I had visions of flooding my neighbor downstairs. I can remove the spigot below and put a new washer in, and/or wrap the thing with teflon tape to seal it. But right now, I'm in the draining phase, and I wonder if I'm just running water through the heater and out the hose. Any ideas? Marye |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Hi,
Our Texas Tornado-bait double-wide mobile home (which is totally paid for, as is our truck) came with blue butyl water pipes. (The maker of these butylene pipes got sued into oblivion, btw.) This kind of pipe, as it ages, develops leaks, which start out as pinhole leaks and later turn into the kind that sank the Titanic. (That's why the manufacturer got sued into oblivion.) We've had these kinds of leaks on a regular basis over the years. Leaks under the floor, leaks under the sinks, leaks in the walls (the kind where the plumber says "You'll have to make a big hole in the sheetrock so I can work"), leaks everywhere. (You may not believe it but whenever I go into a bathroom to take a leak and the carpet isn't wet I say to myself "Happiness is a warm, dry rug.") (As opposed to a cold, sopping-wet rug...) Anyway, if I was having your problem I'd use my T-handled water-main key to turn off the main water supply, then my wife would get on the phone and call either of the two plumbing companies we know of who, thank G-d, are willing to stoop so low as to work on mobile homes (we've heard "We don't work on mobile homes" a lot from plumbing companies--they usually don't even apologize). Good luck! Let us know what happens, OK? Best, - Boyd |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]() The inlet for the cold water and the outlet for hot are usually on top of the water heater. Turn both of the valves off. For the water to drain you will need to break loose the the connections on top. There should be waterflex or unions on the pipe that you can break loose.
If you don't do this it will never drain. Make sure the connections that you break loose are on the hot water heater side of the pipe. It will probably take a while to drain it. The drain that is leaking may not be fixable, especially if it is plastic. If that is the case you will most likely break it taking it off. The best way to solve this problem is just buy a new water heater. Thomas |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Try this this website. you should still be able
to join the class action. If so, they will pay to replace the plumbing in your home plus pay you damages. http://www.spencerclass.com Thomas |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]() dno
> Try this this website. you should still be > able > to join the class action. If so, they will > pay > to replace the plumbing in your home plus > pay > you damages. > http://www.spencerclass.com Thomas |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Other recent posts on the forum...
Get the report on Harvey Brody's Answers to a Question-Oriented-Person